Comme des Garons Odeur 53 5. Just sometimes, a fragrance is described as being indolic - which is pretty unhelpful if you dont work in the perfume world. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile (Not only was black pepper ground onto food, though: it found its way into spells and was used as an amulet to protect against disease and other threats. 26 Luxe Candles Youll Want to Gift Everyone This Year, The 20 Best Perfumes for Women of 2023 (And All Time), Aftershave vs. Cologne: The Byrdie Boy Guide to Finding Your Scent, 15 Summer Fragrances That Will Mentally Teleport You to the Beach, The 12 Best Bath & Body Works Scents of 2023, The 6 Most Expensive Perfume Ingredients in the World, TikTok's Favorite Perfume Now Comes as a Shimmering Body Oil. Jean Patou 1000 A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. But why the high price? PradaNo9 Benjoin Launched in the 1990s, calone recreates the honey-like, watery qualities of the delectable fruit a relation of squashes and cucumbers - which originated in Africa and south-west Asia. The fern most widely used in perfumery is the Common Male Fern, which grows widely in Britain and the rest of Europe. That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. Revlon Charlie Silver. Floris Stephanotis (Though it was probably LArtisan Parfumeur Vanilia in which caramel made its sugary debut.) This yummiest of fruits originates from Central Mexico (guacamole-land!). And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Penhaligons Halfeti But in the perfumers repertoire, its a pricy ($4,000+ a kilo), refined ingredient worth its weight in gold sometimes blended with synthetics that bring out its peachiness, however. 3. Diptyque Oyedo By Kilian Back to Black Boadicea the Victorious Regal Symbolically, honey stands for the sweet life, prosperity, even immortality; the word itself comes from the ancient Hebrew word for enchant When man and bee teamed together, it turned out to be a win-win situation: bees got a safe place to live (and a reliable food source, in the form of flowering crops) and we got to harvest honey and beeswax in unbelievably impressive quantities: a single beehive can produce up to 200 kilos of honey each season. Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. Freesia notes contain a certain amount of linalool, which is a known sensitiser (and listed on perfume packaging as a caution to the sensitive). LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier (Aromatherapeutically, mimosa is said to have properties that help to relieve stress and depression, FYI.). The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. (The best oil, though, is said to come from Tunisia, where Jean-Paul Guerlain has his own bitter orange grove) During the distillation process, a beautifully scented waters also produced, which makes its way into floral waters and flavourings. Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois Freesias get their name from a German doctor, from Kiel in Germany - Friedrich Heinrich Theodor Freese (1795-1876). Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. FragonardJust un Baiser The ancient Arab perfumers were the first to capture honeys sweetness in perfumery, but today the honey featured is generally a synthetic note one thats drizzled sensually over quite a few fragrances in the past few years. The tradition goes back centuries to Charles IX, who inaugurated it in 1561. Little darling. Perhaps unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and coconut. There are good pine smells, and horrid pine smells and if youve ever sat in the back of a taxi with one of those Christmas tree-scented cards dangling from the rear-view mirror, youll probably get where were coming from. Guerlain Eau de Lit Dior Hypnotic Poison Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! Serge Lutens Tubreuse Criminelle. Or as perfumer Julie Massexplains to The Perfume Society: 'An opulent sensation of green-leaf, or the hissing of hot, wet summer lawns - a strangely intense and yet cool floral. Burberry Buberry Women Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. Floris Wedding Bouquet Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. Although linden - also known as tilleul in perfumery - can be extracted from the dried flowers, its usually recreated synthetically: beautifully sweet, exhilarating, bright as a summers day. Serge Lutens Bas de Soie Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. Osmanthus also works beautifully in leathery, suede-like scents, as well as florals. Widely used in cooking, too, in south-east Asia and perhaps most famously, to flavour chai - its slightly camphorous properties work to freshen breath. Bigarade, from the fruit of that tree, is another key ingredient in colognes, while its leaves give us petitgrain, another popular element in citrussy scents. Givenchy Organza Eau de Toilette These apparently delicate flowers - a.k.a. LArtisan Parfumeur Th Pour Un Et Closer to home, this annual (a member of the mint family) grows up to three ft./almost a metre high, and the oils derived from the paper-thin leaves leaves. Este Lauder Private Collection (Hence citral is one of the few perfume ingredients you may see listed on the box your scents packaged in). The shift in sustainability, then, is coming from brands developing new technologies to extract essential oils and create safer and cleaner synthetic alternatives. Guerlain Champs Elyses PERFUMES & PERFUME INGREDIENTS CAUSING ALLERGIC REACTION . Olfactive Studio Still Life Some hay fever sufferers, maybe but most of us just love the fresh, green scent of grass. Herms 24 Faubourg Versace Yellow Diamond. Vivienne Westwood Libertine. Different ionones have subtly different characters, though, ranging from soft violets in full bloom through the iris/earthy/woodsiness of an ionone variation by the name of methyl ionone. We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette Craven told Bloomberg News that Ambergris is one of the three most expensive perfume ingredients today. More often used in masculine perfumery, an essential oil of sage which is steam-distilled from the leaves - does add pep (and pepperiness), freshness and zing to some womens scents even though youll probably be unaware of its eucalyptus-like undertones. The dried roots also make their way into pot pourri. Gwen Stefani L Hugo Boss Femme LEau Fraiche Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan Frederic MalleNoir Epices, Smell carnation in a scent? ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. The galbanum used in No. Petit-what? Cashmeran also works to expand and diffuse floral ingredients. Goutal le Mimosa 5 that changed everything literally sending perfumery on a new, modern trajectory, opening up a world of richness and strength. Elemi is a pale yellow fragrant resin, tapped from a tree Manila Elemi, or Canarium luzonicum - which grows in the Philippines. Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. In aromatherapy - where its the therapy that counts, rather than the aroma -its widely used; its just brilliant for coughs and wheezes. Thierrys stroke of genius was to plug the gap with a touch of celery seed, instead. Este Lauder Pleasures, Whoosh! & Durga, . Lush Smell of Weather Turning Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens, or rose geranium: it gives a scent thats similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. Woods of Windsor Lavender So with the rise in gourmand fragrances, marshmallow has begun to feature as a fantasy note in perfumes, adding an airy sweetness, sometimes with a toasted marshmallow edge. Givenchy Pi Although ink-y notes can come from natural materials like oakmoss, it generally isnt really ink that youll smell in a scent. Grs Cabotine The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Carolina HerreraAmber Desire Used by the handful for a bracing freshness or plucked by the leaf to add just a hint of breeze, mint is a favourite that's here to stay. offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. You know that so-distinctive smell when rain falls onto earth? "We have seen our online sales increase between 150 and 200 percent, depending on . Gucci Gucci by Gucci C9 nonanal smells of roses. The fruit of Ribes rubrum itself, though, is fruity, green and tart, often incorporated into a cocktail of fruity notes which are then woven mostly into fruity-florals: that category of perfumes whose star has been in the ascendant, in recent years often fresh, youthful and vibrant. Milk is a warm and long-lasting vegan layering scent with amber, musk, and bergamot. Goutal ParisLe Muguet Yummy, yummy rum: wonderful in cocktails to drink, glorious in perfumes an appetising gourmand ingredient that pairs well with woods, adding complexity, sweetness and intrigue. Creed Neroli Sauvage Juicy, sharp, tangy: depending on when theyre harvested, blackberries (not actually berries but fruits, BTW) can be luscious and sweet, or slightly sour. Queen Rihanna's favorite fragrance comes from Kilian's lineupso you know it's good. Chanel Coco Noir Editions de Parfums Frdric Malle Lipstick Rose The Bacchanalians tore him apart. As an ingredient, camphor can be extracted from the camphor tree (an evergreen which flourishes in Asia), but its also present in rosemary and eucalyptus: they have that same lung-opening, nostril-opening effect. I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. Each fragrance has a distinct smell based on how it was made and the various perfume ingredients used in it. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Britney Spears Fantasy Cartier Eau de Cartier Theyre incredibly bitter on the tongue, used to flavour vermouth and absinthe (if youre a Martini fan, youll get the connection instantly). Yardley English Lavender. DedCool Fragrance 03 Blonde: Black Violet/Saffron. Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. But above all, they give depth and sexiness to a fragrance'. The berries are harvested from a small, shrub-like tree which belongs to the cypress family. Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oudh is becoming hard to source. If you know which ingredient you want to read about, you can either input the name into our search box (top right). Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini The fragrant liquid which refreshed Roman guests and was flung up by fountains all around town, however, was rosewater - the water in which roses have been steeped, then discarded. It has a medicinal as well as a fragrant use, meanwhile: since at least the 16th Century, Native Americans have turned to guaiac wood to treat really serious ailments (hence the life in the name). Long before that, though, the bitter orange tree is thought to have been brought to Europe by the Arabs from the Middle East, when the trade routes opened up. Este Lauder Pleasures When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. Fragonard Fragonard A herb that grows in the Middle East, North Africa, and the Mediterranean, also known as sweet myrrh. . The tall tree native to America, and great for furniture-making incidentally! Dior Poison Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and youll find its incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasnt come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised. Miller Harris La Fume Angelica is a family of beautiful, umbellifer (or umbrella-like) plants, including Angelica archangelica: both the root and the seeds can be used (though the roots more pungent). You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. Pierre Balmain Ambre Gris Can it be sex-in-a-bottle? (Which was one of the four sacred plants of the Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans.) Penhaligons Peoneve Miller Harris Fleur de Sel As one of the oldest ingredients found in perfumery, it has been extremely popular throughout the decades," says Gamba. Goutal Eau du Sud LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 4 Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Jo Malone London Vetyver A white-flowering bush or tree found in Haiti and South America, amyris is often used as a less-expensive substitute for sandalwood. An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance, it is often reproduced synthetically. (Because of course if you simply filled a bottle with water, youd end up with something with no more of a scent than Perrier or Evian.). Roja Parfums Risqu By Kilian Beyond Love Floris A Rose For Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh Unfortunately, the downside of citral is that it can lead to sensivities and allergies so IFRA (the International Fragrance Association) regulates that it has to be used only with other ingredients that prevent a sensitising effect, and insist its labelled. And the rest, as they say, is history. A fragrance without roses is almost as unthinkable as a love affair without kisses. (Latin name: Citrus junos.) Now who, exactly, first thought that an ingredient from the castor sac (a gland near the beavers reproductive organs) would be just fantastic when bottled and dabbed onto the pulse-points? Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of a Styrax tree. Dior JAdore Dior A gum resin that imparts a green, plant-like smell, Galbanum is one of the rare green notes extracted from nature. Today, most petitgrain productions centred in France, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa. Tolu resin is tapped from the trunks of the tall Myroxylon toluiferum tree, which mostly grows in South America and the West Indies: small incisions are made in the bark, from which thick yellow-brown drops are collected. The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. There is a wood line. The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Cacharel Anais Anais Creed Bois de Cedrat But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! Miller Harris Terre de Bois, Deadly nightshade. Bond No. This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. Although its called grey amber (ambergris), its not to be confused with amber. Goutal Paris Rose Absolue Yves Saint Laurent Opium. But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Since the time of the early Arab perfumers, the flesh of peach kernels was used in scents and ointments. Thirdman Eau Monumentale, Have you ever enjoyed fresh lemon verbena tea? Kiwi fruit themselves grow on woody vines which produce incredibly dull-looking fruit (greenish-brown, fuzzy) but slice them open and the luscious green flesh (with its corona of black, edible seeds) is revealed. Its not that type of rosewood which perfumers use, with its floral, slightly rose-like odour: thats from the Aniba rosaeodora tree, better known as Brazilian rosewood. And did we say sexy? Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. ), The supposed Greek legend linked with the flower is well-known: Narcissus was a handsome youth who fell in love with his own reflection, on seeing it in a pool. Givenchy Ange ou Demon Nowadays, a synthetic form of lilacs often used in contemporary perfumery, as its possible to recreate the tender natural fragrance perfectly, more reliably and year round. Stand in a bluebell wood, close your eyes and a delicate, green-floral haze will envelop and delight you: thats what perfumers who work with bluebell are trying to recreate. Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; its often used in ambres. Who could resist rolling around in that? Traditionally used as a medicinal herb - mostly in order to treat stomach ache and nausea - the Menthol mint essential oil (used at 4090% concentration in compositions) has long been enjoyed for its skin-cooling and spirit-reviving properties in Colognes, perfumes and cosmetic products, and overall, mint is enjoying something of a resurgence in both male and female fragrances over the past few years. Acacia honey: the variations are almost limitless, sometimes woody, flowery, herbal or even tobacco-y. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. Caron Or et Noir LArtisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. The more modern variations, such as pomelo, grapefruit, yuzu and hassaku, are relatively recent developments in the area of perfume extraction. But did you know that this stone-fruit is related to the cashew family? Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Paula Now it has a somewhat old-fashioned, great-aunt-ish image, which means carnation tends to be consigned the chorus of a perfume rather than placed in the spotlight. Each eclectic scent is packaged in a biodegradable pulp carton - a first in the beauty world - with an embossed lid made from recyclable paper packaging. Cartier Le Must de Cartier Guerlain Samsara The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Chanel Coco Noir Roja Dove Enigma Parfum Cologne - a spicy oriental fragrance released in 2019. Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Keiko Mecheri Bois de Santal (Which weve filed under F.) 19 Orange blossom is extracted from the flower through the use of solvents. Chanel Gardnia But its use goes way back: musk makes its first appearance in the 6th Century, brought from India by Greek explorers. The agarwood is a result of a reaction to a fungal attack, which turns this usually pale and light wood into a dark, resinous wood with a distinct fragrance a process that takes hundreds of years. Sometimes.) Why allspice? Sharp, aromatic, refreshing, grapefruit from the peel of the fruit of the Citrus paradise tree - blends well with other citrus ingredients in the overture, or top notes, of summery and uplifting scents, blending well with basil, lavender, cedarwood and ylang-ylang. Once exclusively reserved for kings and queens, frankincense has been used in religious ceremonies, burial rituals and for embalming including for mummification. Caron Parfum Sacre Its generally used as a fixative or stabiliser in many perfumes helping to make sure that a favourite scent smells consistent, and keeping it true for many years in the bottle. Chopard Wish Pure Clive Christian C for Women It takes around three to four thousand kilos of gardenia flowers to produce a kilo of concrete (solid perfume) from gardenia plants so not surprisingly, this heady white flower is one of the priciest ingredients in a perfumers arsenal. Thus, it can be combined with all sorts of other notes: Think flowers, roses. But its aromatic nature really comes out when a distillation of the dried leaves and/or berries (in rum and water) is blended into perfumes (and aftershaves). Katy Perry Purr Guerlain Shalimar Guerlain Idylle Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura (a.k.a. Oudh (sometimes spelled 'oud') has become a phenomenally popular ingredient, but still divides opinion. (Theres a touch of mustiness if you smell a driftwood note neat from the vial, which perfumers can cleverly round out with other ingredients.) Memo Manoa You may also be familiar with it from body products and even fabric conditioners: Cashmeran clings, and doesnt rinse out well, leaving traces of its sensuality on the skin after showering, or your bedlinen after laundry day. The common ingredients found in perfume are benzyl alcohol, acetone, linalool, ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzaldehyde, camphor . Around 70% of the rose oil in the world comes from Bulgaria; other significant producers are Turkey, Iran and Morocco, and precious, limited quantities from Grasse. Cinnamomum verum is thought to have been an ingredient in the original holy anointing oil, mentioned in the Bible. Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, Mimosa. Dior Diorissimo Bella Bellissima Arabian Rose J-Lo Glo Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza Unable to leave behind the beauty of his image, Narcissus died to be replaced by this flower, Boadicea the Victorious Magnificent (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) In summer scents, in particular, kiwi adds a refreshing sweetness. (Interior decorators, as well as perfumers, also love ginger for the sheer architecture of the plants. The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. 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